Humectants Are a Hydration Hero—This Is What You Need to Know

Trends come and go, but one thing that will never go out of style is healthy, glowing skin. There are different properties and ingredients that can help achieve this goal, such as humectants. A humectant is a common moisturizing and anti-aging agent found in beauty products used for your hair and skin. It's known for its ability to retain moisture while also preserving the overall properties of the product at hand, and you're probably more familiar with humectants than you think.

So, what exactly should you know about humectants? We asked cosmetic chemist Shuting Hu, B.Sc, Ph.D, and dermatologists Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, Charles Puza, MD, and Azadeh Shirazi, MD, to give us the lowdown on this hydrator and the potential benefits for your skin. Read on to learn what they had to say. 

What Is a Humectant?

“A humectant is a substance that is key to keeping the skin hydrated,” Hu tells us. “It’s an ingredient that helps draw moisture to the skin’s surface and retains water so that the skin does not end up drying out quickly. It is commonly used in face and body products such as serums, lotions, and creams.” 

Familiar humectants include hyaluronic acid and collagen-boosting properties, both of which are commonly found in our daily skincare. Different humectants have different origins, but they all have a common purpose as skin hydrators. “Some humectants are derived from natural sources, such as honey and aloe vera, while others are synthesized from other sources to create ingredients like glycerin and propylene glycol,” says Shirazi. 

Charles also notes that as humectants draw in moisture, they should not be applied to dry skin. “Always add humectants to damp skin,” he says.

Benefits of Humectants

• Draws moisture in: Humectants are designed to act like a sponge and attract water, says Garshick. They are often able to hold up to 100–1000 times their weight in moisture.
• Keeps the outside world out: Humectants that are occlusives will work to seal off the cracks in the skin, says Charles.
• Can double as keratolytic: Urea, a humectant, can also be an agent that helps remove skin, says Charles. It is effective on dry or rough skin, such as on the heels.
• Preserves properties: Humectants can help dissolve actives and preserve products, says Shirazi.
• Exfoliates: Shirazi also shares that humectants can work as exfoliators and remove dead skin cells to even out the moisture levels in the skin. 
• Soothes: Humectants function as a way to soothe and calm the skin after experiencing irritation, Hu tells us.
• Pretty and plump: Hu also adds that humectants can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by “plumping” the top layer of your skin.

Side Effects of Humectants

While there are no general “side effects” of humectants, it is important to note that application is best after cleansing, while the skin is still damp.

“Humectants can be dry skin’s BFF or worst enemy,” says Shirazi. “The problems start when there is little humidity in the air, and the humectant is applied several times a day. It will begin to steal hydration from deeper skin layers, which in turn can dry out the skin.”

How to Use

If you have a skincare routine, you are probably already using humectants without realizing it, explains Hu. Water-based skincare products are formulated with humectants because they moisturize and have preserving properties. 

Products with humectants can be applied at any stage of your skincare routine when your skin is still damp. Hu also emphasizes Shriazi’s point of applying the products when the skin is still damp, to help the product easily absorb into the skin.

“Products with humectants can be applied at any time, day or night,” adds Hu. “Humectants should be sealed with an occlusive product unless you live in an extremely humid environment. Otherwise, all of the moisture the humectant worked to bring to your stratum corneum will be evaporating into air.”

The Best Products With Humectants

Vichy Minéral 89

Vichy Minéral 89 $30.00

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This lightweight facial moisturizer contains hyaluronic acid and mineral-rich Vichy Volcanic Water to simultaneously help boost hydration and support the skin barrier, and according to Garshick, it leaves the skin looking smoother and plumper. It is easy to use and can be applied on its own or followed by a thicker moisturizing cream.

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Serum

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Serum $42.00

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This hyaluronic acid serum contains different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, targeting the different layers of the skin. It hydrates the skin, leaving the skin feeling soft, smooth, and visibly plumper, and can reduce the appearance of fine lines, says Garshick.

Thayers Rose Water Facial Toner

Thayers Rose Water Facial Toner $10.95

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Garshick recommends this alcohol-free facial toner witch hazel, soothing aloe vera, and glycerin, which is a humectant that attracts moisture to boost hydration, allowing the product to help tone the skin while leaving the skin feeling hydrated. 

Wander Beauty Baggage Claim Eye Mask

Wander Beauty Baggage Claim Eye Masks $25.00

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Garshick shares that these under-eye masks hydrate the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by incorporating hyaluronic acid. They can also help with undereye bags, she says, as they help de-puff with the help of calendula extract, leaving you looking less tired. 

Tatcha Dewy Cream

Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream $68.00

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“The Tatcha Dewy Cream is my latest moisturizer,” Charles tells us. “It’s full of antioxidants, and being such a hydrating cream, it hasn’t caused any breakouts on my acne-prone skin. It plumps and smooths and lives up to its namesake.” 

La Roche Posay Face Repair Lotion

La Roche Posay Face Repair Lotion $19.00

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A luxe product at an affordable price point, this product is a “phenomenal daily lotion,” says Charles. It is travel-friendly at 3 ounces and has niacinamide to fight antioxidant damage.

Neutrogena Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Serum $24.00

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A great drugstore option, this fragrance-free, non-comedogenic serum is a great option for those who prefer serums as moisturizing agents, says Charles. A few drops after washing the face go a long way with this potent hydrator.

First-Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream $42.00

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Shirazi recommends this fast-absorbing, rich moisturizer with colloidal oatmeal, which reduces inflammation. The humectant glycerin is formulated with shea butter and relieves irritation, while allantoin soothes and calms the skin. Shirazi says this product is great for those with dry skin who want a heavier cream.

AziMD Intense Recovery Complex

AziMD Skincare Intense Recovery Complex $60.00

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Formulated with glycerin and dimethicone, this duo hydrates and seals the skin. Shirazi shares that it also has ceramides and panthenol, which help repair the skin barrier and reduce acne bacteria. Shirazi recommends the lightweight moisturizer for anyone with dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.

Acaderma Better With Age Replenishing Light Cream

Acaderma Better With Age Replenishing Light Cream $68.00

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Hu explains that this cream, formulated with hyaluronic acid, draws moisture into the skin from the environment and helps keep the skin hydrated throughout the day without clogging pores. The Replenishing Light Cream is also packed with ceramides, MSM, peptides, and collagen to promote smoother, firmer skin, Hu adds.

Anove AHA + Aloe Cleansing Gel

Anove AHA + Aloe Cleansing Gel $45.00

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Many cleansers can easily dry out the skin, says Hu, but the AHA + Aloe Cleansing Gel uses Aloe Vera to deliver a boost of hydration, retain moisture in your skin, and soothe irritation.