How to Use Curlformers on Natural Hair

Step One: Prep the Hair With a Conditioning Mask

Kim Kimble Star Treatment Masque $14.00

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Before even whipping out your Curlformers set, Kimble says she likes to prep the hair with either a conditioning mask or treatment or a hot oil treatment. While this step is technically optional, it certainly helps to soften and prep the hair for curling—and let's be honest, if the mastermind behind Queen Bey's hair is suggesting it, consider us sold.

"We have a great hot oil treatment at Walmart called Miracle Hair Oil ($13) that is super hydrating," Kimble says. "The Star Treatment Masque is also really great to condition and prep your hair for a roller set."

If you're running short on time or can't be bothered with an entire treatment before curling, swap the conditioning mask with a leave-in conditioner spray, like Curly Temple Lavendar Milk Leave-In Conditioner ($19) to quickly seal in moisture.

Step Two: Insert the Hook

The hook is made up of two interlocking pieces that are detachable for compact storage. When you're using them, you should connect them to make a long hook, which should fit through all of the Curlformers.

Each Curlformer has an opening at both ends, allowing you to insert the hook and pull it completely through. Just place the hook end into an opening of the curler—it doesn't matter which—and slide the hook all the way through. If you're having difficulty, squeeze the end of the Curlformer to open it more and make inserting the hook easier.

Step Three: Give Hair a Small Twist

Isolate the section of hair you're getting ready to place into the Curlformer (the larger the section, the looser the curl, and vice versa), and give it a slight twist. This will make it easier to get all of it inside the curler.

According to Everett, you should aim to make section sizes based on the size of the curler, "The rule of thumb for creating texture change with any roller or curling iron is to use a section the same width of the tool," she explains. "Many Curlformers are about an inch wide, so your section should only be about an inch wide."

Apply a few pumps of setting foam to each section to add grip to the hair. Kimble recommends using her Movie Set Mousse ($13) on dry strands to leave it soft without crunchiness or residue. "Mousse can help form the curl and control the hair, making it easier to hold onto," she explains. Other great options are ORS Olive Oil Wrap/Set Mousse ($7), Paul Mitchell Sculpting Foam ($12), and Kera Care Foam-Wrap Set Lotion ($15).

While you can work with damp or dry hair, Kimble suggests the latter, "If you don't have a relaxer, you can blow-dry your hair and use setting foam," she says. "You don't have to put in rollers dry, but if you have natural hair, I find it easier to put them in dry with setting mousse. Just use a generous amount and make sure you're completely dry before taking the Curlformers out."

Step Four: Hook the Hair and Begin Pulling Through

Next, Place the hook around the hair section you're getting ready to place inside the Curlformer. Push the Curlformer close to the scalp and—with your other hand holding the end of the hook that is coming out of the opposite opening—gently pull the hook holding the hair through the curler.

If it doesn't go super smoothly, don't be surprised. It's not always perfect, particularly if some hair escapes from the hook (using mousse or end-papers helps prevent slipping). If you catch or snag, stop, and then push the hook back toward the scalp. Comb the strand out and begin again, so you don't pull tangled hair into the curler, and consider making your sections smaller.

Escaping hair might be a sign your sections are too large, which, according to Everett, should be avoided for an entirely different reason: "This can make the hair dry inconsistently and preclude the hair for setting around the curl formers," she explains.

Step Five: Pull Hair Completely Through

Continue pulling the hook through in one smooth motion until the hair section is encased in the Curlformer.

The Curlformer should spring back to its perfect spiral shape once the hook is removed, but if it doesn't, hold the end of the curler nearest to your scalp and run the other hand down the length of it to smooth it straight out. Let it go, and it should bounce right back into shape.

Step Six: Repeat Over Entire Head

Repeat this process over all the hair you want to curl. Although it might seem tedious, once you have the technique on lock, it goes surprisingly quickly. This model's hair was completely curled, with pictures taken, in a total of 45 minutes.

The reason Curlformers come in two different colors for each size is that they twist in opposite directions. If you want your hair to curl away from your face, you need to understand that color matters. To do so, place pink, green and magenta curlers on the left side of your head, and blue, yellow, and orange curlers go on the right side.

To create a diverse, inconsistent curl pattern, Kimble suggests mixing different Curlformer sizes and alternating the curl directions, "You can get as creative as you want—use different types of rollers, different sizes of sections," she says. "It really just depends on what kind of look you are going for. Have fun with it!"

For a more natural curly look, Everett suggests switching between similar sizes, or using the same sizes for a more uniform curl. "If you alternate the direction of the curls, it will create more fullness and volume," she explains. "If you create the Curlformer set with all of the curlers going in the same direction when the curls fall, they will fall flat into a wave pattern."

Step Seven: Remove Curlformers

Let your hair dry fully before removing Curlformers. Kimble says the biggest mistake she sees people make is taking the hair out too early. Take one curl down first to test if the hair is completely dry before taking all the curls out. "If your biggest/thickest curl is dry, then it's safe to assume the rest are," she explains, "If any aren't dry, roll it up and leave it in for longer."

Because the Curlformer surface is mesh-like, air constantly circulates through, making drying time shorter than it would be with a product like magnetic rollers. To speed things up, you can sit under a hood dryer or use a hand-held dryer over the head. Kimble suggests drying for the first 30 minutes, then letting it air dry. Air drying may take anywhere from two to eight hours overnight, depending on the length and thickness of your hair.

If you're heat drying (or beginning with a home blowout), Everett says to be sure to use a heat protectant beforehand, "I love products that pull double duty and help to protect the hair." The Amethyst Curl Primer + Heat Protectant ($50) from Meraki fits the bill by protecting and prepping the strands.

Once your hair is dry, hold it close to the scalp with one hand and use the other to straighten the Curlformer and slip it off.

After: Model A

This is Model A, whose hair is chemical-free and just past shoulder length, immediately after removing Curlformers. If you want more spiral-type curls, use the smallest section of hair possible. Otherwise, you'll get these tubey, Shirley Temple-like curls.

After: Model B

This is model B immediately after removing Curlformers. This is also chemical-free hair, about mid-back length when stretched.

Final Step: Separate Curls for More Volume

One N' Only Aragon Oil Spray Treatment $9.00

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If you don't like the candy curls look, you're not stuck with it. "While removing the Curlformers, add a light oil or serum to your hands to smooth over each curl," Everett says, recommending the One N' Only Aragon Oil Spray Treatment.

To separate the curls, you can also use the same serum to carefully pick each curl unit apart into two to four separate sections. Take your time, and to maintain their shape and prevent frizz, avoid raking your fingers through or using a comb.

Kimble recommends silk to preserve your style and overall hair health, "The biggest tip I have for anyone–a regular person or a celebrity—is to sleep with a silk bonnet or scarf on your head at night," she explains. "It protects your hair from drying out or breaking. It's what I do."